Bit for exracehorse

[CP1]

Could any bitting experts out there give me some advice?

I've had my ex-racehorse for just over a year. When I first got him, I tried riding him in a sweet iron french link with a lozenge, but he was terribly fussy in the mouth, always 'playing' with the bit with his tongue and not accepting the contact readily.

I then went to the other extreme and put him in a Happy Mouth, straight bar loose ring snaffle - which was a huge improvement and have used that ever since. We competed successfully at unaffiliated dressage and have done loads of schooling, hacking, jumping etc.

But, he is now leaning on the bit very heavily and I feel like I'm carrying him, when we're schooling - I'm getting huge biceps!?!! He will lighten up after about 30 mins work but it's hard work and I realise that straight bar bits encourage leaning anyway.

So where do I go now? Any tips? He's not strong, but is still not 100% settled in the mouth and if he feels under pressure will open his mouth or grind his teeth. (He's had the dentist out every six months and is fine from that point of view).

Sorry for the long question - but would really appreciate some advice.

Thanks

[beany1]

my ex-racer went best in a happy mouth UNTIL I put him in a bitless. He has no choice but to carry himself and is so much better in every way now.

[Lisa B]

I agree with above, my ex-racer never went better than when bitless. But i did use a rubber pelham with an elastic curb for a while n she went well in that without leaning.
Went bitless cause she never stopped her habit of hanging her tongue out the side regardless of the bit.

[cp]

Thanks both for you advice, my problem is I really want to find something that works that is dressage legal - as I'm hoping to continue competing.

[Louise C]

Have you tried a KK Ultra - they are very kind bits and lots of dressage people use them? Or Sara K is trying out a Myler Comfort snaffle for her ex racer, he's going well in it so far, but she hasn't had it long.

[sarak]

Yes, the Myler comfort snaffle is really suiting Jo for schooling, but I don't have the same braking power out hacking that I do in a happy mouth pelham with elasticated curb. However, in the happy mouth if he gets agitated he starts to shake his head, so this is not the answer!

I am going to try a different bit via the Myler bit bank - the triple mullen barrel on an eggbut ring with hooks, as Cicely assures me that this will give me the extra control - I can attach a curb chain to this bit.

I'm looking forward to trying it out, but need to save up the pennies as Mylers are pretty pricey.

[jemma]

My ex racehorse went fantastic in a KK ultra snaffle too. Expensive but worth it and dressage legal!

[cp]

Thanks everyone for your comments - it looks like it's a toss up between the Myler and the KK Ultra!!

[CarolineP]

If the horse is fussy in the mouth not accepting the contact as you describe then it normally a sign that the horse was not happy with the quality of the contact provided - a lot of this will come down to your position and whether the way you sit means that you are holding tension in your shoulders, arms, hands etc. A huge excuse nowadays is horses have mouths of different conformation and like different bits - this lets the rider off the hook, invariably though you will find that these horses which are said to be difficult in the mouth can be ridden in a snaffle when the rider makes adjustments to themselves.

When schooling you need to remember that the carriage of head and neck are a sign that all is going well elsewhere in the horse - an end result not a starting point. Changing the bit is trying to influence the front end when really the rider should be paying attention to themselves and the back and quarters of the horse.

Changing the bit will not solve the contact issues as discussed above but rather the horse probably just slightly sat back from the contact, slightly shortened the neck. The contact was quieter as the horse opted out of it altogether. One should ride the horse between leg and hand, if you change the bit you are focussing on the front end not the quarters.

If your horse becomes heavy it is because it is on the forehand. Changing the bit will not solve this - you may encourage the horse to be lighter but that will be through backing further off the contact - not because it is more off the forehand. If the original bit changes led the horse to sit slightly behind the contact a side effect would very likely be loading of the withers as the stretch across the topline is hampered, in another words the horse as a result was more on the forehand.

I would keep your horse in simple snaffle be it jointed or french link and focus on your position. Shoulders back, down and soft. Upper arms hanging by your side, definite bend in your elbow with soft forearms. Forearms belong to the horse, your upper arms to your body. Think of broad front line and chest, seat and chest moves through your arms which are hanging light vertically downwards with elbows back and down. Thumbs should be on top. Shoulder hip, heel alignment should be in place with pelvis vertical. Hands should be carried and not buried in the horses withers.

P.S Never forget the bit manufacturing is a highly lucrative industry and it is their interest to encourage horse owners to try and find a solution in the bit. The pet / horse trade is different from any other business and the marketing differs as well, animal owners are hugely sentimental about their pets and will spend fortunes trying to do the best by them. It is in the bit industries interest to persuade you that the horse is unhappy with the bit as opposed to recommending positional and training adjustments.

[springy]

I found that my highland loves his myler comfort snaffle with its very thin mouth piece, as he has a small mouth and low palate. He hated the kk ultra as it was too much of a mouth full for him. Definatley worth having a good look in his mouth to check how much room there is.

[ct]

Hi, i have a TB ex-Racehorse. Due to racing my horse was extremely on the forehand, it took perhaps 1 maybe 2 years to truly get him off the forehand and working in what i call a long low prelim outline. I had problems of him leaning on the bit, the way we dealt with it was to ride him longer and lower on a very relaxed contact until he couldn't use my hands to lean on and i was also not resisting him and tensioning my arms. This caused him to become light in the hand when the contact was being brought back. It did take along time to master this as he is a TB ex racer and at first he would throw his head up and of he would go. But i used more leg into hand.

Then once this was achieved in all 3 gaits we started to bring him up and engage his hind legs. We did try changing the bit but this only helped to a certain degree. It did take a long time but he now competes at affiliated elementry level.

Good luck

[speedy]

Agree with Ct and carolineP - my ex-racer is in a simple loose ring french link and it took years to get him light in front - because it's only achieved by engaging the hind quarters so they can carry the front end. Lots of transitions using the seat can help too.

Sweet iron is meant to help them mouthe, so if he was mouthing too much, then maybe he didn't like the metal - try a simple steel french link with lozenge before going down the expensive route - if he doesn't like lozenges, best to find out now than after buying a KK!!! You could also try a happy mouth french link as he seems to like the material in his mouth, and the link will help prevent him leaning.